| This is in a lovely place right now where it still has loads of primary lime and mandarin citrus fruit and it gives you a big hit of zesty stony minerality up front, but underneath there’s a tantalising promise of the complex petrol notes it’s going to develop over the next few years, so much so you can mentally roll it back and forth between the two states. Much bigger and fuller-bodied than you would expect, and just enough residual sugar to temper the electricity of the citrus, but I’m not sure I’d even call it off-dry; it’s just perfectly in balance, despite the incredible complexity. |