| Loads of crisp fresh fruit here, both red and black, but there are herbs as well, and spicy black pepper and soy sauce, and that damp earthiness that is such a Chambertin trademark, and running through it all is a seductive sandalwood perfume, an almost Vosne-Romanée-like incense. There’s also a funky savoury note which adds an interesting and welcome dimension, it reminds me vaguely of Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais. The whole thing sits on top of an incredibly precise structure, with tension and grip and a finish that goes on and on and on. So much happening here and yet it still feels young and vibrant and like it’s got decades ahead of it. |